If you think "what it is?", look at this page. This manual is mainly for those who purchased the kit, but it is also useful for people who want to make their own from scratch. Please also refer to the section "Information for people who want to make from scratch" at the bottom of this page.
Video manual
Movie version assembly manuals are also released (for kit purchasers).
I think that it is easier to understand, so please have a watch it together.
If you have a problem
For assembly questions and consultation, please post to the user group as much as possible. Information can be shared with other members, which will be helpful for everyone. Also, you can get answers more quickly than via other contacts.
Please contact here for missing items etc. Since it is not a special form, please be sure to state that it is an inquiry about Capsule Cheeper.
Required tools
Please prepare the following items.
【Required】
【Optional】(More stars are more convenient)
- A wire stripper ★★★★★
- Tape（masking tape, scotch tape, etc）★★
- Cliping tool for soldering（a X tweezers, a soldering stand, etc...）★
Checking parts
Take the parts out of the capsule. Make sure that you have the following.
| ①2 wires (blue, red and black) | ②A rubber tube | ③Screws(see the next table) | |
| ④capsule (a colored half) | ⑤Partition（cardboard） | ⑥A battery holder | ⑦2 eyes |
| ⑧A timer IC | ⑨2 capacitors（light blue 104、orange 103） | ⑩3 resistors(described later) | ⑪a few more resistors |
| ⑫capsule（a transparent half） | ⑬A circuit board | ⑭A battery | ⑮A speaker |
Items that are linked can be purchased at the link even when lost or damaged(There are cases where colors are different or processing is necessary)
About resistors
5 to 6 resistors are included. First check the color and find the following three. The color tint may be different.
These three are ⑩ and are for attaching to the board. Other than that ⑪, which are for putting in capsules after completion.
About screws
It is a breakdown of screws. All are M3 screws. In case of loss, you can purchase at the link, and it can be purchased in units of one at DIY shops.
| Characteristic | Length | Quantity |
|---|---|---|
| Long screws | 40mm | 2本 |
| Medium screws | 20mm | 2本 |
| Of the short screws, a slightly long one | 10mm | 1本 |
| Of the short screws, short ones | 8mm | 3本 |
| Nuts (Hexagonal parts) | - | 8つ |
| Washer (Thin donut-shaped parts) | - | 8つ |
How to make (6 steps in total)
Let 's build a Capsule Cheeper together.
It takes about 1 to 2 hours for adult beginners.
１．Soldering
Here we will solder electronic components to the board. In this process we use only these materials. The resistors are three found as ⑩ in the "parts confirmation" section.
Solder in order from the shorter parts. It is a resistor first. Let's bend the lead of the three resistors as close as possible to the resistor.
Insert it in the hole of the board. The hole to be inserted is where R1 to R3 are written. The color of each resistor is defined.
Look at this table and put a resistor in the hole of the board where the corresponding number is written. The orientation does not matter.
Turn the board over. If it is difficult to do so due to the resistor moving, you can stop it with tape from the front side.
Solder it. Let's have a soldering iron on the dominant hand and a solder on the reverse hand.
Allow the soldering iron to hit both the land (metal part) of the board and the lead of the resistor, then warm it up for several seconds.
As it is, press the solder slightly around the contact between the land and soldering iron and melt it.
Release the solder as soon as it melts, then release the soldering iron. Ideally, the solder should solidify into a cone around the lead, and if it becomes a sphere it is a little too much.
See the tip for soldering here.
Cut off extra leads. Cut leads can be used for the contents of capsules, so keep them.
Take the timer IC next. The direction of the timer IC is fixed. Place the board so that the letters "555" are straight, and set the round indentation on the top of the IC to the upper left side.
This is the orientation.
555 is the name of the timer IC. (However, the attached IC is an imported item, I feel doubtful whether this is a real 555. But please be assured we are checking the operation.)
Flip it and solder all 8 pins.
The next are capacitors. Place 104 in orange on C1 and light blue 104 on C2. The orientation of these capacitors does not matter.
Solder it, cut the leads, and keep them.
Then use the wire. Because red and black wires are stuck together, split both ends slightly.
If you split a little at the tip with a nail or a tip of a nipper, you can split it with your hands.
Cut the blue wire in half and make it two.
Slightly peel off the red and black wire and the two blue wires only on one side.
Like this. If you use a wire stripper, it is good to use a hole written as "24 AWG" stranded wire.
Let's go back to the board. Put red black wire for "BATTERY" and blue wires for "PITCH" holes. Be careful not to put the back side.
Pass the wire stripped through the holes in the board and solder from the back. In the picture we have set up a board, but it is okay doing it lay. Because the land is largee than before, the solder should be used more.
If you can not do it well, peel off the wire longer. It is also good to fix the wire to the board with tape on the front side.
It is good to let the whole exposed part of the wire pass through the hole. If gaps are formed, press the wire gently while hitting the soldering iron on the land, the solder melts and pushes in.
Now like this. This section is over!
２．Mounting the battery holder
This is the part that installs the battery holder. These parts are used here. The screw is 10 mm (one in short screws and a little long).
Pass the 10 mm screw through the larger hole on the side of the battery holder and screw it into the smaller hole on the opposite side with the screwdriver (the screw head will come inside the battery holder). If you push it under pressure with your finger it may crack, so be sure to screw it with a screwdriver.
Screws passed. It will be like this.
Please look at the capsule (a transparent half). There are four holes around the "プラ" mark at the top, and when you look closely you see only one hole underneath it. Insert the screw of the battery holder into the hole.
Pass one washer through the screw from the inside.
Tear off the black and white wire of the previously made board by about 5 cm, peel off the tip of the black one about 3 to 5 cm. After cutting the coating, come off while twisting so that the tip of the wire does not get frayed.
Wrap the tip round. Make a circle of size through which the screw passes. Once you have made the shape of "ℓ" and then twist the intersecting part, you can easily make it. If it is difficult, you may strip the wire a little longer.
To the screw, go through rings of the wire, washer, nut, in this order.
Tighten the screws. Suppress the nut with your hand and tighten with a screwdriver. If you overtighten it, the capsule and the battery holder will crack, so moderate it.
After tightening the screws, tighten the nut slightly with your fingers, pliers, etc. Because it is also easy to break here, tighten the battery holder to such an extent that it does not turn around.
It tightened.
This is the end of this section.
３．Attaching a speaker
Here are the capsules you are working with, the speaker, the 8 mm screw (short screw), the nuts.
Pass the wire of the speaker from the outside into the hole above the hole with the battery holder.
Solder the wire of the speaker to the board. It is two holes written as "SPEAKER". Either hole can be red or black.
Here also the board is upright in the photo, but you can lay it down and solder it.
Soldering is over here. Do not forget to unplug the soldering iron outlet. Including other wires, if the tip of the wire is long on the back of the board, cut it off.
Using an 8 mm screw and nut, screw the speaker out of the capsule. The hole is a hole diagonally opposite the hole through the wire. Careful not to tighten too much as capsules break easily.
This section is over.
４．回路部屋の組み立て
In this part, the upper half of the capsule will be completed. In addition to the capsule under construction, two 40 mm screws (long screws), two nuts and washers, a rubber tube, a partition (cardboard) are used.
40 mm screws in the photo has a washer on the head. Even if it is not attached, do not worry it's okay. (You don't need to attach it by yourself.)
[f:id:slide glide:20170722122432j:plain]
Cut the rubber tube in half with scissors.
Cut.
Pass the screws from the outside into the remaining 2 holes in the capsule.
Pass the rubber tube through the screw from the inside. The rubber tube acts as a spacer to support the board
.
Pass the red wire extending from the board from the inside to the outside into the same hole through which the wire of the speaker passes.
Pass the screw through the hole in the board. Make sure that the part with the part is on the capsule side. Turn the blue wire out of the capsule.
If it is difficult to insert screws in the hole, you can control by fitting the screwdriver to the screw head.
Pass the screws through the holes in the partition. Pass the blue wire through the notch of the partition.
Finally, attach washers and nuts in order, and tighten the screws. Here too, as the capsule is likely to break, so moderately.
Rotating the nut side rather than turning the screws is more difficult to crack.
This section is complete with this!
５．Install another half of capsule
It is a little after coming so far! The things to prepare in this section are the other half of the capsule, two 20 mm screws (medium screws), two 8 mm screws (short screws), four washers and four nuts.
Tear off the blue wires anout 3 - 4 mm from the end. After cutting the coating, come off while twisting so that the tip of the wire does not get frayed.
Loop the two tips in the same way as when connecting the battery holder.
If the loops are likely to unravel, you may immerse the solder in the part you twisted together.
Pass the 20 mm screw (medium screw) from the outside to the two adjacent holes among the four holes. Also pass washers on the inside.
Also pass the loop of wire. One wire per one screw.
If the loop is small and it is difficult to reach the root, put the loop in the tip and turn the screw to move the ring to the root.
After passing through the root, thread through the washer and nut, and tighten the nut. This is harder to crack than a transparent capsule, so it is okay to tighten it to a certain extent.
In the picture, the wire passes through the outer circumference of the capsule than the screw, but if you tighten the nut with the wire facing toward the center of the capsule, you will feel that the sound will sound more easily. (It may be due to mind)
Also insert the 8 mm screws (short screws) from the outside into the remaining 2 holes, and tighten with the nut from the inside.
Now like this.
６．Finish
This is the last section! Use capsules, eye movements, batteries, excess resistance, leads of parts left when soldering.
Let's put the parts' legs and resistance inside the capsule. Put it straight or bend, as you like.
It is better to put additional material. Resistance, clip, core of mechanical pencil, something metal fittings, screws etc ... found at home.
Close the capsule.
Peel off the tip of the red copper wire about 5mm ~ 1cm. Go through the coating while twisting.
Put the eyes. Because double-sided tape is attached, peel off the paper and paste it. Put it on the bottom side and you will feel cute.
Insert the batteries in the battery holder. The outside is +. Unlike AA or AAA batteries, flat surface is + so do not mistake.
If batteries are difficult to enter, please tighten the screws of the battery holder a little more with the screwdriver. Conversely, loosen the screws when the battery is easy to come off.
It was finally completed! !
When playing, hold the tip of the red wire in contact with the battery.
If you do not want to do so, you should stick it with tape.
Please upload photos and videos to the Twitter, Facebook, Instagram, etc and of course Capsule Cheeper Users Group! The hashtag is #CapsuleCheeper.
We will also post information on remodeling examples and future upgrades on Capsule Cheeper Users Group, please join us.
Tips on playing
- You can shake, tilt little by little, slowly rotate, twist upper and lower capsules, change the sound with various movements.
- When it is hard to sound, add content or make it big. Reduce the contents or make it small, when it sounds too much.
- The sound changes when you replace the contents. Wires, resistors, mechanical pencil leads, etc. Changing is more felt by replacing everything than adding things little by little.
- It is interesting to hook the clip so that it bridges both terminals (it will not become a continuous sound unexpectedly).
- Since the screws of the terminals are also exposed to the outside, you can also make sounds by hitting metal from the outside. You can find out if the object is conductive or not.
- In addition, if you discover interesting things to enter or new ways to play, please let us know on Capsule Cheeper Users Group.
Information for people who want to make from scratch
- The capsule has a diameter of 48 mm. There are several manufacturing companies and the positions of the holes are different, so it is necessary to make other parts according to the obtained capsule. Only the fixing hole for the battery holder is opened with a drill after obtaining.
- The screw size is M3 and the rubber tube is 4 mm inside diameter.
- The circuit diagram of the board is here. Even if it is assembled with a universal board, it fits into a capsule sufficiently.
- The timer IC is supposed to be CMOS LMC555. Since the power supply is 3V, it may not move with NE555. (What I use for the kit is imported from China, written as LMC555, but it is true or doubtful.)
- The 3D model of the battery holder is here. Corresponding battery is CR2032.
In addition, if you have questions about your own work, please go to Capsule Cheeper Users Group.
